I slept ok again except for another half-time break in the middle of it. It was surprisingly quiet here with almost no traffic noise, even though the hotel is on a main road. I actually woke up late with the sound of other guests voices at 8.40 as I'd set my alarm to 8pm... Because of this and wanting to go to the park before checking out, I had breakfast in my room and a shower in mildly tepid water. I got a rickshaw to the Nek Chand Rock Garden, which I expected to have an array of sculptures from recycled material but I was surprised. If you know the Parc Güell by Gaudi in Barcelona, it is basically the Indian equivalent of that. It is absolutely amazing and very inspiring. I took 76 photos of that alone, seeing huge areas of stone and pottery designs making up a labyrinth of a park.
The story is that Nek Chand came from Pakistan in 1958 and started making things for 15 years but kept them hidden. When they were found out, he was given 50 workmen to help him and a salary. It is still unfinished so that gives you an idea of how incredible it is.
I got a public bus to the bus station which saved some money – 5 Rs instead of 100 in the rickshaw. I eventually found the bus platform after wandering around like a fool, hoping I wouldn't have to wait 2 hours or something. It was just pulling out as I got there so I jumped straight on – nice...
It took a bit longer than the 4 hours but we went up into the Himalayas and I saw lots of small monkeys watching us by the roadside. I'd actually forgotten that I'd see some different animals. Unfortunately, my camera battery was dead but I should get a chance to get some photos soon.
When we got to Shimla bus station, I couldn't find the exit! Nothing was marked and every door I went out of led to platforms. It took me about 10 minutes just to get out – I had to go downstairs. Signs would be useful... Then, according to the map, a good hotel should have been 200m away. Oh, it started snowing just before I got there and at over 2000m up, it was pretty cold. So, I started walking through the snow but the road just kept on going. I asked someone and he said 'no, the station has moved. Where you want is 4km away.' Great, not what I needed with my 15kg rucksack on. He stopped a bus for me and I wedged myself on. It was very uncomfortable and got even fuller to the point where I was really straining to stand up straight. I couldn't even get to my pouch to pay for my journey but at least I got the ride for free. When we finally arrived at the main road, I had no idea where to go. I just followed the road, looking out for other hotel names that were in the book. Did I see any? In the snow and now ice, of course not! I must admit I wasn't exactly happy. I stopped at a police cabin and they could locate the YMCA for me, so I just went for that. I had to go up 2 lifts then walk up another main road, which turned out to be the one I thought I had been on. And the signs for the YMCA? Take a guess... I had to ask again and a man said up those stairs. Honestly, by that time, it was like having to walk up to the top of the world – 15kg load, icy ground, very tired and upset... I finally reached it and almost collapsed. Luckily they had a room and it was only 250 Rs. It was a single room with shared bathrooms but at least I could put my bags down. And lie down.
It was now 6.45 and after going down the two flights of stairs and back up twice to get more money and other stuff, wearing two t-shirts and two pairs of socks, I went to find a café noted in the book. Shock, horror, it didn't exist. How about the other one at the other end of the road? I'm sounding predictable, I know... I think the Lonely Planet wrote this guide book for some fictional India as I've found almost nothing that I've wanted to so far.
I went in another Indian restaurant and hoped I wouldn't get food poisoning. I expected it after this mess of an afternoon. It was very nice, though, and a few hours later, I feel fine but we'll see...
Then I went to find a bar or café just to do something and be inside. I actually spent my time just trying to stay on my feet. It was really icy now but I was very careful. The town itself is quite attractive and I'll get some photos tomorrow but there was nothing to do so I wasn't very happy to have come here. The plan tomorrow is to go back to Chandigarh then get an overnight bus to Amritsar.
I wrote this with numb fingers in my bed, covered with blankets but I'm still freezing cold. What a shame after having such a nice morning.
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